Melasma on Dark Skin: What It Looks Like and How to Care for It

Melasma on dark skin shows up as flat patches of tan, brown, grayish brown or bluish gray skin, usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip or jaw. It's common on Black and brown skin, and you can care for it with daily sun protection, a gentle routine and a dermatologist who knows deeper skin. Here's what to know, without the fear.

Can Black people get melasma?

Yes. Black people can get melasma, and so can people with brown skin from every background. Melasma happens on all skin tones, but the American Academy of Dermatology notes that women with medium to dark skin tones are the most likely to develop it. Men get it too, just less often.

That isn't because anything is wrong with melanin-rich skin. Your skin has pigment cells called melanocytes. In deeper skin tones, these cells are more active and more responsive, which is part of what gives you your color and some built-in protection. The flip side is that sun, heat, hormones and irritation can prompt them to make extra pigment in patches.

If you're new to the condition, start with our guide to what melasma is and who gets it. Pigmentation also shows up in its own ways across Asian skin tones, which we cover in hyperpigmentation on Asian skin.

What does melasma look like on Black and brown skin?

On Black and brown skin, melasma usually looks like flat patches that are a few shades darker than your natural tone. They can be tan, brown, grayish brown or bluish gray. The patches tend to be symmetrical, showing up on both cheeks, across the forehead, along the nose, above the upper lip or on the chin and jaw.

A few details can help you recognize it:

• It's flat. Melasma doesn't change the texture of your skin. It isn't raised, scaly or itchy.
• It's often even on both sides. Matching patches on both cheeks are a classic pattern.
• It can look gray or blue-toned. When extra pigment sits deeper in the skin, it can read as grayish rather than brown, which is easy to mistake for shadows or tiredness.
• It can appear beyond the face. Some people notice it on the neck or forearms, areas that get a lot of sun.

On deeper skin, the contrast between melasma and your natural tone can look subtle in one light and obvious in another. That's normal. Many people first notice it in photos or under bathroom lighting.

Not every dark patch is melasma. Dark marks left after acne, ingrown hairs or eczema are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is also common on deeper skin. Velvety darkening on the back of the neck, the armpits or skin folds can be acanthosis nigricans, which is worth checking with a doctor because it can be linked to blood sugar. A dermatologist can tell these apart.

What causes melasma on Black skin?

Melasma on Black skin has the same causes as melasma on any skin tone: active pigment cells meeting a trigger. The main triggers are UV rays, visible light from the sun, heat and hormone shifts, such as pregnancy or starting birth control. Genetics play a role too, so melasma often runs in families.

The triggers worth knowing:

• Sun, even in short bursts. Melanin gives deeper skin some natural shielding, but not enough to keep melasma from darkening. The school run and the walk to your car count.
• Visible light. The AAD notes that visible light can worsen melasma, especially for people with darker skin tones. Most sunscreen filters don't block much of it. Iron oxides, found in tinted formulas, do.
• Heat. Hot kitchens, saunas, hot yoga and warm commutes can all play a part.
• Hormones. Pregnancy, birth control and some hormone therapies can set it off or make it more noticeable.
• Irritation. Anything that inflames your skin, from harsh products to waxing or threading, can prompt more pigment.

Why is darker skin more prone to hyperpigmentation?

Darker skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation because its pigment cells respond quickly to inflammation. When skin is irritated, burned or injured, those cells can make extra melanin, which leaves a dark mark behind. This is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and on deeper skin it can last for months.

This matters a lot for melasma. If a product or procedure irritates your skin, you can end up with PIH on top of melasma. The AAD notes that some melasma treatments can irritate darker skin, which can make melasma darker. So stronger is not better here. Gentler usually is.

Common ways skin gets irritated without you meaning it to:

• Gritty scrubs, rough washcloths and cleansing brushes
• Stacking several acids or retinoids at once
• DIY remedies like lemon juice, baking soda or toothpaste
• Picking or squeezing spots and bumps
• Waxing, threading or dry shaving on reactive areas
• Unregulated creams bought online that promise fast results. The FDA has warned that some of these contain mercury.

For more everyday habits that can deepen marks, see 3 everyday habits making your dark marks worse.

Are lasers and chemical peels safe for melasma on dark skin?

Lasers and chemical peels can be options for melasma on dark skin, but they carry more risk on deeper skin tones and need an experienced dermatologist. Done too aggressively, they can cause burns, PIH or lighter patches, and melasma can come back darker. They're usually add-ons to a plan, not the first step.

Dermatologists who work with skin of color adjust their approach. That can mean choosing specific laser types and gentler settings, using milder peels, spacing sessions further apart and making sure your skin is calm and sun protected beforehand. The AAD also notes that results usually take longer on darker skin, so a slower plan is normal, not a sign that something is failing.

Before any procedure, it's fair to ask:

1. How much experience do you have with my skin tone, and can I see results on skin like mine?
2. What is the risk of darker or lighter patches afterward, and how do you lower it?
3. What should my routine look like before and after?
4. What's the plan if my melasma comes back?

Be cautious with med spas and at-home devices that aren't overseen by a dermatologist experienced with deeper skin. The AAD's page on melasma diagnosis and treatment points to its Find a Dermatologist directory, where you can look for a skin of color practice focus. Dermatologists also have prescription options and will choose based on your skin and history.

What's the best sunscreen for dark skin with melasma?

The best sunscreen for dark skin with melasma is one you'll wear every day: broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, and ideally tinted with iron oxides to help with visible light. Look for a shade that matches your skin, so there's no white or gray cast to put you off using it.

What to look for:

• Broad spectrum, SPF 30 or higher. This covers both UVA and UVB rays.
• Iron oxides. They give tinted sunscreens their color and help protect against visible light. You'll find them in the inactive ingredients list.
• A tint made for deeper skin. Many tinted mineral sunscreens come in only a few light shades. Look for a real shade range, and test on your jaw in daylight.
• A texture you enjoy. Sheer chemical or hybrid formulas often disappear on deep skin. If you love a clear sunscreen, you can layer a tinted sunscreen, or a foundation or powder with iron oxides, on top.

Apply it generously as the last step of your morning routine. Reapply every two hours when you're outdoors, and after sweating or swimming. Add a wide-brimmed hat and shade when you can. Our guide to the best sunscreen for melasma goes deeper into tints and filters, and our melasma FAQs answer quick questions.

How do you care for melasma on dark skin?

Caring for melasma on dark skin means protecting it every day and keeping it calm. A simple routine of a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer and sunscreen does more for your skin than a shelf of strong products. Add new products one at a time, so you can spot anything that irritates.

Morning

1. Rinse or wash with a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser.
2. Apply a moisturizer that suits your skin type.
3. Finish with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, tinted with iron oxides if you can.

Evening

1. Cleanse gently to remove sunscreen and makeup. Use your fingertips, not a brush.
2. If you use an active ingredient, choose one and introduce it slowly. Cosmetic ingredients often used in even-tone routines include niacinamide, azelaic acid, vitamin C and licorice root. Ask your dermatologist which fits alongside any plan they give you.
3. Moisturize.

Everyday habits

• Patch test new products on a small area, like your jaw, for a few days first.
• Skip anything that burns or stings. That's your skin telling you it's irritated.
• Keep heavy hair oils and pomades off your forehead if they tend to cause bumps.
• Ask about gentler hair removal if you have melasma on your upper lip.
• Give it time. Pigment changes happen over months, not days.

For quick answers on other kinds of discoloration, browse our dark spots FAQs.

When should you see a dermatologist?

See a dermatologist if you're not sure a patch is melasma, if it's spreading or bothering you, or if you'd like prescription options or procedures. Look for a board-certified dermatologist with experience in skin of color. Any spot that changes, bleeds, itches or grows needs a prompt check, whatever your skin tone.

Melasma isn't harmful to your health, but other conditions can look similar, and it helps to know what you're working with. It's also worth knowing that on deeper skin, melanoma can appear in places people don't often check, like the palms, the soles of the feet and under the nails. If you're ever wondering whether a spot is melasma or melanoma, a dermatologist is the right person to answer.

Melasma on dark skin is common, and it doesn't mean you did anything wrong. With steady sun protection and a gentle routine, you're already taking good care of your skin.

This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. If you have a skin condition or concern, talk to a doctor or dermatologist.