Frequently asked questions

Hyperpigmentation is skin that is darker in some areas than the surrounding skin, caused by extra melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. It shows up as dark spots, patches or an uneven skin tone. Common types include post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (marks left after acne, cuts or irritation), sun spots from UV exposure, melasma (larger, even patches linked to hormones and deepened by sun, visible light and heat), and darkening from friction. Hyperpigmentation is harmless in most cases and is especially common in medium to deep skin tones, where pigment cells respond more strongly to inflammation and light.

Dark spots on the face are caused by melanocytes producing extra melanin in one area. The most common triggers are: sun exposure (UV and visible light), inflammation from acne, eczema, bug bites or picking at skin, hormonal changes such as pregnancy or the pill (which can bring on melasma), irritation from harsh products or hair removal, and certain medications. On darker skin tones, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after breakouts is the leading cause of dark spots.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a flat dark mark that appears after the skin has been inflamed or injured, for example by acne, a cut, a burn, eczema, a rash or an aggressive skincare product. Inflammation signals pigment cells to make more melanin, which is left behind as a brown, gray or dark patch once the skin heals. PIH is more frequent and longer-lasting in skin of color (Fitzpatrick types IV to VI). Marks in the upper skin layer often improve over several months; deeper pigment can take a year or longer.

Hyperpigmentation is more common in darker skin because its melanocytes are more reactive: they produce more melanin, and produce it faster, in response to inflammation, friction, UV and visible light. The number of pigment cells is similar across skin tones; the difference is how much pigment they make and how it is distributed. This is why a pimple, scratch or rash is more likely to leave a lasting dark mark on melanin-rich skin, and why gentle, non-irritating skincare and daily sun protection matter so much.

Dark spots after acne (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) are a color change only: the skin is flat and smooth, just darker. True acne scars change the skin's texture, either as indents (atrophic scars such as ice pick, boxcar or rolling scars) or raised bumps (hypertrophic or keloid scars). Red or purple marks, more visible on lighter skin, are called post-inflammatory erythema. Color marks usually improve with time, sun protection and brightening ingredients, while textured scars generally need professional procedures.

PIE and PIH are both flat marks left after a breakout, but they differ in color and cause. PIE (post-inflammatory erythema) is red, pink or purple and comes from small blood vessels widened or damaged by inflammation. PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) is brown, gray or dark and comes from extra melanin.

To tell them apart, press a clear glass against the mark: PIE usually turns paler under the pressure, while PIH stays the same color. PIE shows up more on lighter skin, and PIH is more common and longer-lasting on medium to deep skin tones, though you can have both.

For either one, don't pick, calm breakouts early and wear SPF 30 or higher every day. Brightening ingredients such as vitamin C and niacinamide help PIH look less noticeable over time, and for red marks that last, a dermatologist can discuss in-office options. More in PIE vs PIH: red vs brown acne marks explained.

Most dark spots from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation improve over 3 to 12 months, depending on how deep the pigment sits and how dark the skin is. Pigment in the top layer of skin (epidermal) responds fastest, while deeper (dermal) pigment can last a year or more. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, avoiding picking and irritation, and consistent use of brightening ingredients such as vitamin C and niacinamide help dark spots look less noticeable sooner. Skin renews roughly every 28 days, so allow at least 8 to 12 weeks to judge a routine.

Yes. UV rays and visible light stimulate melanin production, so sun exposure darkens existing spots and triggers new ones. Research shows visible light, not just UV, causes stronger and longer-lasting pigmentation in medium to deep skin tones, and heat and visible light can both deepen melasma. Protect skin daily with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher; tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides add protection against visible light. Reapply every two hours outdoors, and wear sunscreen even on cloudy days and near windows.

The best-researched over-the-counter ingredients for uneven skin tone are: vitamin C, which slows tyrosinase, the enzyme that starts melanin production; niacinamide (vitamin B3), which reduces the transfer of pigment to skin cells; alpha arbutin, kojic acid and licorice root extract, which also slow tyrosinase; and gentle exfoliating acids (AHAs, BHAs and PHAs), which speed up the turnover of pigmented cells. Combining ingredients that work on different steps, alongside daily sunscreen, gives the best results. A dermatologist can advise on prescription options for stubborn pigmentation.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often improves on its own over months as skin renews, provided the trigger (such as acne or irritation) is under control and the skin is protected from the sun. Without sun protection, dark spots tend to persist or darken. Sun spots are less likely to improve without help, and melasma (hormonal pigmentation) can last for years and often comes back, so it's worth seeing a dermatologist. For post-inflammatory marks and sun spots, brightening ingredients, gentle exfoliation and daily SPF shorten the time it takes for skin tone to look more even.

To prevent dark marks after acne: do not pick, squeeze or scrub blemishes, because extra inflammation means extra pigment; calm breakouts early with gentle, non-stripping products; wear broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every day so UV and visible light don't deepen marks; and add an antioxidant such as vitamin C or niacinamide to your routine. The faster inflammation settles, the lighter and shorter-lived any post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation will be.

Darkening of the inner thighs and bikini line is very common and usually caused by friction (skin rubbing on skin or tight clothing), repeated irritation from shaving, waxing and ingrown hairs, hormonal changes, and leftover marks from razor bumps. Melanin-rich skin responds to this irritation with extra pigment. Reducing friction with breathable cotton and looser fits, spacing out hair removal, and using gentle products made for intimate skin all help. See a doctor if darkening appears suddenly or feels thick and velvety.

Dark underarms are commonly caused by friction, irritation from shaving or waxing, reactions to deodorant or antiperspirant ingredients, a build-up of dead skin cells, and the shadow of hair under the skin. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from repeated irritation is the main reason in darker skin tones. Switching to gentle, fragrance-free products, reducing friction and exfoliating gently usually help. Thick, velvety dark patches can be a sign of acanthosis nigricans, which is linked to insulin resistance and should be checked by a doctor.

No. Lemon juice is highly acidic (pH around 2), which damages the skin barrier, and citrus is phototoxic: combined with sunlight it can cause burns, blisters and phytophotodermatitis, which leaves new dark marks. On melanin-rich skin, this irritation often makes hyperpigmentation worse, and it can also cause patchy light spots. Stable, properly formulated vitamin C gives the brightening benefit of citrus without the burn.

Yes, gentle chemical exfoliants help uneven skin tone by speeding up the shedding of pigmented surface cells. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid work on the surface, beta hydroxy acid (BHA, salicylic acid) also clears pores, and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are the gentlest option for sensitive skin. On darker skin, start low and slow, 2 to 3 times a week, because over-exfoliation causes irritation that can trigger new hyperpigmentation. Always follow with sunscreen.

See a dermatologist or doctor if a dark patch appears suddenly, spreads quickly, changes shape or color, bleeds or itches, feels thick or velvety, or doesn't improve after 3 months of sun protection and gentle care. Any mole or spot that is new, asymmetrical, has an irregular border or several colors should be checked promptly. A dermatologist can confirm the cause of hyperpigmentation and recommend professional or prescription options.

No, you can't safely make dark spots go away in a week. Skin renews itself about every 28 days, and pigment sits in cells that have to move up and shed, so visible change takes at least 4 weeks and a more even-looking tone usually takes 8 to 12.

Products or hacks that promise results in 3 or 7 days often rely on harsh acids or unregulated ingredients that irritate skin and can leave it darker. Consistent vitamin C, gentle care and daily sunscreen work better.

Sun spots, also called solar lentigines, liver spots or age spots, are flat, well-defined tan to dark brown spots caused by years of UV exposure. They appear on sun-exposed areas such as the face, hands, shoulders and chest, usually after age 40, or earlier with frequent sun.

They're harmless, but any spot that changes, grows, bleeds or has an irregular border should be checked by a dermatologist. Daily SPF 30 helps prevent new ones, and vitamin C helps existing ones look less noticeable.

To take accurate before-and-after photos of dark spots, keep everything the same except time. Stand in the same place, facing a window in daylight, at the same time of day, with no filters, flash or makeup. Keep the camera at the same distance and angle, and pull your hair back.

Take one front and two side photos on day one, then every 4 weeks. Compare at 8 and 12 weeks, because day-to-day changes are too small to see in the mirror.

Yes, dark skin needs sunscreen every day. Melanin gives natural protection of roughly SPF 13 in very dark skin, well below the SPF 30 dermatologists advise, and it doesn't stop UV or visible light from darkening existing spots. People with deep skin tones also get skin cancer, and it's often found later.

For skin prone to hyperpigmentation, use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning and reapply every 2 hours when you're outdoors.

Use about a quarter teaspoon (roughly 1.25 mL) of sunscreen for your face, or two full finger lengths of lotion, to get the SPF on the label. SPF is tested at 2 mg per square centimeter of skin, and most people apply half that or less, which cuts protection sharply.

Add a little more for your neck and ears. Reapply every 2 hours outdoors, and after swimming or sweating.

Screens give off only a tiny fraction of the visible light that sunlight does, so phones and laptops are unlikely to cause dark spots on their own. The sun is the real concern: its high-energy visible (blue-violet) light causes stronger, longer-lasting pigment in medium to deep skin tones, and light through windows adds up.

Instead of worrying about screen time, wear a tinted sunscreen with iron oxides, which blocks visible light better than untinted formulas.

SPF 50 is only slightly better than SPF 30 on paper: SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays and SPF 30 about 97%. In real life, SPF 50 gives a margin of safety, because most people apply too little.

For skin prone to dark spots, the sunscreen you'll wear generously every day matters most: broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, and ideally tinted. Reapplying every 2 hours outdoors makes more difference than moving from 30 to 50.

The Fitzpatrick skin types are six groups that describe how skin reacts to the sun. Type I always burns and never tans; type II usually burns and tans minimally; type III sometimes burns and tans gradually; type IV rarely burns and tans easily; type V very rarely burns and tans deeply; type VI never burns and is deeply pigmented.

Types IV to VI are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so gentle products and daily sunscreen matter most for them.

Tyrosinase is the enzyme inside pigment cells (melanocytes) that starts melanin production by converting the amino acid tyrosine into the building blocks of melanin. UV light, visible light, inflammation and hormones all switch it on, which is why they lead to dark spots.

Many brightening ingredients work by slowing tyrosinase, including vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid and licorice extract. Others, like niacinamide, act on a later step: the transfer of pigment to skin cells.

Hyperpigmentation comes back because the pigment cells that made it are still there and still reactive. Sun, a new breakout, friction, heat or an irritating product can switch them on again, and stopping sunscreen or brightening care often brings spots back within weeks. Hormonal pigmentation such as melasma is especially likely to return, so if you think you have melasma, see a dermatologist.

To keep your results, wear SPF 30 or higher daily, continue a gentle brightening routine as maintenance, and avoid triggers like picking and harsh scrubs.

Chemical peels can be safe for dark skin when they're superficial and done by an experienced professional. Light peels with glycolic, lactic, salicylic or mandelic acid at modest strengths carry a low risk. Medium and deep peels injure more skin and can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or light patches on deeper skin tones.

Choose a provider who works with skin of color regularly, prepare your skin as advised, avoid the sun afterwards, and never use strong at-home peels on intimate areas.

Alpha arbutin is a brightening ingredient, related to a compound found in bearberry leaves, that slows tyrosinase, the enzyme that starts melanin production. In cell and skin-model studies it lowered melanin production without damaging pigment cells.

It's gentle, water-soluble and used at up to 2% in face products. It works gradually, over 8 to 12 weeks, and pairs well with niacinamide and vitamin C, which act on other steps of pigmentation.

Kojic acid is a brightening ingredient made by fungi during the fermentation of rice, the same process used for sake and soy sauce. It slows tyrosinase by binding the copper the enzyme needs, which helps uneven tone look more even. It's usually used at 1% or less, and the EU limits it to 1% in face and hand products.

Kojic acid can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some people, so patch test first and avoid stacking it with many other actives.

Skin brightening aims to make skin look more radiant and even, helping dullness and dark spots look less noticeable while your natural skin tone stays the same. Skin lightening aims to make skin lighter overall by reducing melanin across a whole area.

Brightening ingredients include vitamin C, niacinamide and gentle exfoliants. Some products sold for lightening contain unsafe or undeclared ingredients, such as mercury. In Spanish and French, "aclarar" and "éclaircir" can mean either, so always check the ingredient list.

Yes. A damaged skin barrier makes dark spots worse because it lets irritants in and water out, which keeps skin mildly inflamed, and inflammation tells pigment cells to make more melanin. Signs include stinging from products that used to feel fine, tightness, flaking and redness.

To repair it, pause exfoliants and strong actives for 1 to 2 weeks, use a gentle cleanser and a moisturizer with ceramides, and keep wearing sunscreen.

Melasma is a common skin condition that causes flat, tan, brown or gray-brown patches, usually on the cheeks, forehead, nose, chin or upper lip. It happens when pigment cells become more active, often in response to sun, visible light, heat and hormones. It's harmless and not contagious, but it can be long-lasting.

Melasma is more common in women and in people with medium to deep skin tones, though anyone can get it. Learn the triggers and who gets it in What is melasma?

Melasma is caused by pigment cells that become more active in response to certain triggers, mainly sunlight, visible light, heat and hormones. Pregnancy, birth control pills and a family history of melasma all raise the odds. Researchers still don't fully understand why some people react to these triggers and others don't.

Some medicines that make skin more sensitive to sun, thyroid conditions and tanning beds have also been linked to melasma. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is the most important habit. Read more in What is melasma? Causes, triggers and who gets it.

Melasma is one type of hyperpigmentation, but not all hyperpigmentation is melasma. Hyperpigmentation is the umbrella term for any skin that's darker than the area around it. Melasma forms even, often symmetrical patches linked to sun, heat and hormones, while other types include sun spots and the marks left after breakouts (PIH).

Telling them apart matters because the care plan is different. See Melasma vs sun spots vs hyperpigmentation: how to tell, and ask a dermatologist if you're not sure.

No, melasma and sun spots are different. Sun spots are small, well-defined brown spots that build up after years of UV exposure, often on the face, hands and chest. Melasma forms larger, blotchy patches, usually on both sides of the face, and is linked to hormones, heat and visible light as well as sun.

Both get darker with sun, so daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher matters for either one. For more ways to tell them apart, read Melasma vs sun spots vs hyperpigmentation.

Melasma in pregnancy often starts in the second or third trimester, though it can appear at any point. Rising estrogen and progesterone seem to make pigment cells more active, so patches can show up on the cheeks, forehead or upper lip, especially after time in the sun. It's common enough to be called the mask of pregnancy.

For some people it goes away in the months after the baby is born. Daily tinted sunscreen, shade and a hat protect your skin in the meantime, and check any new skincare with your doctor while you're pregnant. More in Melasma in pregnancy.

Yes, hormonal birth control, especially the pill, can trigger melasma in some people. The hormones in many contraceptives (estrogen and progestin) can make pigment cells more active, and sun exposure then brings the patches out. Not everyone on birth control gets melasma: genetics, skin tone and sun habits all play a part.

Don't stop your birth control on your own. Talk to your doctor about your options, and wear broad-spectrum SPF every day. Read Can birth control cause dark spots on your face?

Heat may make melasma worse, even without direct sun. Many people notice their patches look darker after cooking over a hot stove, a sauna, hot yoga or a heat wave. Heat is thought to switch on pigment cells and add inflammation, which is why melasma care covers heat as well as UV and visible light.

Cool your skin down after workouts, step back from hot ovens, and keep up daily sunscreen and shade. More in Does heat make melasma worse? Heat, light and SPF.

The best sunscreen for melasma is a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher that you'll wear every day, ideally a tinted mineral formula with iron oxides. The tint adds protection against visible light, which can darken melasma, especially on medium to deep skin. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide filters are often comfortable on sensitive skin.

Apply it generously every morning and reapply every two hours when you're outdoors. Compare the options in Best sunscreen for melasma: tinted, mineral, visible light.

Melasma isn't always permanent, but it is long-term for many people. For some people it becomes less noticeable on its own once a trigger ends, for example after pregnancy or after stopping birth control pills. For others it lasts for years, and it often comes back with sun exposure, heat or hormonal changes, even after it has settled.

Daily sun protection is the most important habit. If melasma bothers you, a dermatologist can discuss prescription options and in-office procedures, though no approach can promise it won't return. Learn more in What is melasma?

Yes, men can get melasma, though it's much less common than in women. It looks the same: flat, tan to gray-brown patches on the cheeks, forehead, nose or upper lip. In men, sun exposure and a family history tend to be the main triggers, and it's more common in medium to deep skin tones.

Men often skip sunscreen, so daily SPF 30 or higher and a wide-brimmed hat are the most important habits. Read What is melasma? for the triggers and who gets it.

No, melasma isn't dangerous. It's a harmless change in skin color, it isn't cancer and it isn't a sign of skin cancer. It doesn't hurt, and you can't catch it from or pass it to anyone. Its effects are cosmetic, although it can change how you feel about your skin, and that's worth taking seriously.

Any spot that changes in size, shape or color, bleeds, itches or grows needs to be checked by a dermatologist, whether or not you have melasma. Read more in Melasma vs sun spots vs hyperpigmentation.

See a dermatologist when you first notice patches you think are melasma, so they can confirm it, and again if it spreads, darkens despite daily sunscreen or bothers you. A dermatologist can tell melasma apart from other conditions and discuss prescription options and in-office procedures chosen with your skin tone in mind.

Go sooner if any spot changes, bleeds, itches or grows. Read more in What is melasma?, or see Melasma on dark and brown skin.

A darker upper lip is common, and it usually comes from one of a few causes: melasma (sometimes called a melasma mustache), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from waxing, threading, shaving or hair removal creams, sun exposure, or the shadow of fine hair.

Melasma on the upper lip tends to form an even, symmetrical patch and is linked to sun, visible light, heat and hormones such as pregnancy or birth control. Marks from hair removal are often patchier and follow irritation. Gentle hair removal and a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, ideally a tinted mineral formula with iron oxides, help protect the area.

A dermatologist can tell you which one you have and discuss prescription options if you need them. See a doctor sooner if a spot changes, bleeds, itches or grows. More in Melasma mustache: why your upper lip gets darker.